Friends, Festivities, Salt Flats and Mountains
My second night in Tilcara was a lot of fun. With Carnival starting, there were parades through town with people playing flutes and drums and brass instruments. I met up with friends I’d met on a tour in Salta. I followed them to a party inside a courtyard where there was a live band and a bar. People were dancing and shooting foam into the air, and blasting people in the face with baby powder. At one point I was dragged into the crowd by an elderly man with a strong grip – he forced me to dance while my friends laughed at me.
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These one-liter party cups are kind of flimsy.
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We then moved to a restaurant with a band playing local music. They were talented and I enjoyed the music. I was still rather early when I found myself tired – I had spent the day hiking and I was ready for bed. So I said goodnight and went back to my hostel.
Unfortunately, my second night at the hostel (in the dorm room) wasn’t very good. There were mosquitoes in the room. I got bit several times, a couple times on my face. But the worst was that the mosquitoes kept buzzing in my ears and waking me up. I tried to sleep with the sheet pulled over my head, but it was too hot. The other girl in the room was also bothered and borrowed some mosquito repellent from me, and the evil part of me wished I hadn’t shared – maybe the mosquitoes would have left me alone in favor of her.
On top of that, a party next door went on until 5 AM. It sounded like live music – one of the bands that had paraded through town. The drums were so loud. Honestly though, the noise probably made the mosquitoes a little more bearable.
Fortunately, I had a hotel arranged for the next couple of nights. One of my friends had helped me reserve a room at their hotel through WhatsApp. It was somewhat expensive, but I was ready for a couple of cushy nights with a private bathroom and no mosquitoes.
I met up with my friends in the morning at their hotel. We took a bus to Purmamarca. From there, we arranged a taxi to take us to Las Salinas Grandes (salt flats). There are a series of salt evaporation pools cut into the salt. They look to be a few inches deep but are actually closer to 2 feet deep. It’s apparently forbidden to step into them (whoops), but I saw a lot of people putting their hands in and splashing their faces with the water, so I don’t feel too bad.
And I got a sunburn. The altitude and the reflection off the salt make for a dangerous combination. I had put sunscreen on my arms, but my Tilley hat wasn't enough to protect my nose and cheeks. And we were only there an hour.
The drive up to the salt flats was great with amazing scenery all around. On the way back we pulled over to snap a few photos of some wild vicuna, including a baby! So cute.
We also spent a bit of time in Purmamarca on the way back. It’s known for it’s “Hill of Seven Colors”, which was kind of nice. I was also fascinated by the tables of goods for sale around town. Stacks and stacks of blankets and sweaters. Bags and toys. It was fun to browse a bit. My friends bought some nice gifts including chessboards with the pieces representing the Spanish vs the Incan Empire.
And I got a sunburn. The altitude and the reflection off the salt make for a dangerous combination. I had put sunscreen on my arms, but my Tilley hat wasn't enough to protect my nose and cheeks. And we were only there an hour.
The drive up to the salt flats was great with amazing scenery all around. On the way back we pulled over to snap a few photos of some wild vicuna, including a baby! So cute.
We also spent a bit of time in Purmamarca on the way back. It’s known for it’s “Hill of Seven Colors”, which was kind of nice. I was also fascinated by the tables of goods for sale around town. Stacks and stacks of blankets and sweaters. Bags and toys. It was fun to browse a bit. My friends bought some nice gifts including chessboards with the pieces representing the Spanish vs the Incan Empire.
These are my friends Laura (Above) and Jesica (Right). I had a great few days with them. They introduced me to some aspects of Argentina I would have missed if I hadn't been with them. I hope to see them again someday. May our paths cross again soon! |
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I killed a day hanging out around the hotel by myself while my friends went to visit another town a few hours away. Traveling can be exhausting, so I needed a day to relax and enjoy little things like a bath and the view from my private patio. I also got some laundry done.
The hotel was up on the side of the mountain with a great view of the valley below. I had enough shade on my patio that I could enjoy it all day. It was a pretty nice hotel. The only downside were the dogs down the street. On my first walk up to the hotel, I got bit by a dog. The dog didn't intend to hurt me, it was a warning. It bit me around the ankle of my boot and not my bare leg, but it's still pretty worrisome and dangerous. Walking to and from the hotel included a lot of yelling and rock throwing in the following days. But by the time I left, I was the alpha dog and the dogs seemed afraid of me.
The hotel was up on the side of the mountain with a great view of the valley below. I had enough shade on my patio that I could enjoy it all day. It was a pretty nice hotel. The only downside were the dogs down the street. On my first walk up to the hotel, I got bit by a dog. The dog didn't intend to hurt me, it was a warning. It bit me around the ankle of my boot and not my bare leg, but it's still pretty worrisome and dangerous. Walking to and from the hotel included a lot of yelling and rock throwing in the following days. But by the time I left, I was the alpha dog and the dogs seemed afraid of me.
We had a dog join us for dinner. And we laughed a lot about... other things...
On the last day that I spent with my friends we traveled to Humahuaca. Laura and I stopped to get up close to a couple of llamas. They were friendly and liked having their heads scratched. I was surprised by how thick and soft their wool was, especially on their necks.
From Humahuaca we took a 4x4 up to Hornocol, known as the Hill of 14 Colors. I had seen photos, but I have to admit, it was quite a sight in person. The altitude made walking to and from the viewing point a bit of a challenge.
I said goodbye to my friends and stayed the night in Humahuaca so that I could continue my journey north from there. I had a really terrific week and will cherish the memories!
