Hiking in the Bariloche area
My hiking boots are officially broken in! I’ve done a couple of day hikes, both involving very steep climbs and descents and I think my boots will work out just fine (it’s just my feet that are a problem!). My boots appear to be waterproof, as advertised, which makes them a little hot to wear, but it’s nice to be able to walk through a shallow stream without worrying about wet socks and boots. And my boots seem to rinse off easily; obviously treated with something.
The day hikes I’ve done are cheap and easy to get to. Public transit takes you to the trails, usually 40-60 minutes away. Most buses run every 10-20 minutes about 16 hours a day. The fares range from 75 cents to 2 dollars CAD, so you can just hop on a bus and go wherever you like, and if you end up in the wrong place, it’s no big deal (I say from experience). I’ve discovered that the Moovit app not only tells you which bus to catch, where the stops are and what the schedule is - it also gives you details about some of the hikes, including maps with your current location. It’s been handy.
The first hike I did was steep but short. A 200 meter climb to the peak of Cerro Campanario offering 360 degree views of the area. I’ll admit that three quarters of the way up, I was starting to wish I’d taken the chairlift - it was a steep climb. It was so steep that going back down was almost as difficult. But it didn’t take very long to reach the top and the views were amazing. And they had food and beverages, German style ales on tap and a café with decent coffee. I spent a while up there reading and hoping to get a better look at some of the birds and lizards, but there were a lot of people, and the wildlife was skittish.
The day hikes I’ve done are cheap and easy to get to. Public transit takes you to the trails, usually 40-60 minutes away. Most buses run every 10-20 minutes about 16 hours a day. The fares range from 75 cents to 2 dollars CAD, so you can just hop on a bus and go wherever you like, and if you end up in the wrong place, it’s no big deal (I say from experience). I’ve discovered that the Moovit app not only tells you which bus to catch, where the stops are and what the schedule is - it also gives you details about some of the hikes, including maps with your current location. It’s been handy.
The first hike I did was steep but short. A 200 meter climb to the peak of Cerro Campanario offering 360 degree views of the area. I’ll admit that three quarters of the way up, I was starting to wish I’d taken the chairlift - it was a steep climb. It was so steep that going back down was almost as difficult. But it didn’t take very long to reach the top and the views were amazing. And they had food and beverages, German style ales on tap and a café with decent coffee. I spent a while up there reading and hoping to get a better look at some of the birds and lizards, but there were a lot of people, and the wildlife was skittish.
But that hike was nothing compared to my hike to Refugio Frey. Oh boy, that was a long day.
I slept in – not surprising really, because I haven’t set an alarm for anything other than boiling eggs – but the bus I needed to catch only ran every 2 hours, so I missed a bus and had to catch the next one. I didn’t start the hike until 11 AM, and I read it was a 7-hour hike (return trip). The hike is over 10 km in each direction, and the altitude gain is about 700 meters. At first, I walked fast, trying to make up time – but… I don’t think that works. Because while I did make up some time on the first half of the hike, the second half went considerably slower. It was tough. The trail got steeper and steeper, and was obstructed by large boulders. Not to mention that there wasn’t a cloud in the sky and the sun was beating down on me all day. It was 28C in Bariloche, likely cooler on the mountain, but the sun was intense. It’s a good thing I applied a thick layer of sunscreen, but my eyeballs got a bit sunburned (my sunglasses wouldn’t stay my nose – too much sweat).
I didn’t have any insect repellant, but I didn’t really need it. There were a lot of insects buzzing around, but no mosquitoes and nothing that bites, other than the horseflies. I assume they were horseflies – they look similar to the ones in the Canadian Rockies, but they have a white stripe down each side. I got bit twice and the bites hurt, but they didn’t leave a mark. They were most annoying buzzing around my head. I managed to kill quite a few by hitting them with the brim of my Tilley hat, knocking them to the ground and stunning them long enough to step on them. Though they were tough little bastards – more than once they bounced off the ground and kept flying.
I did wonder a few times if I was going to make it to the top or whether was even worth the effort. But as I got higher, the view became more enticing, and I couldn’t stop.
I slept in – not surprising really, because I haven’t set an alarm for anything other than boiling eggs – but the bus I needed to catch only ran every 2 hours, so I missed a bus and had to catch the next one. I didn’t start the hike until 11 AM, and I read it was a 7-hour hike (return trip). The hike is over 10 km in each direction, and the altitude gain is about 700 meters. At first, I walked fast, trying to make up time – but… I don’t think that works. Because while I did make up some time on the first half of the hike, the second half went considerably slower. It was tough. The trail got steeper and steeper, and was obstructed by large boulders. Not to mention that there wasn’t a cloud in the sky and the sun was beating down on me all day. It was 28C in Bariloche, likely cooler on the mountain, but the sun was intense. It’s a good thing I applied a thick layer of sunscreen, but my eyeballs got a bit sunburned (my sunglasses wouldn’t stay my nose – too much sweat).
I didn’t have any insect repellant, but I didn’t really need it. There were a lot of insects buzzing around, but no mosquitoes and nothing that bites, other than the horseflies. I assume they were horseflies – they look similar to the ones in the Canadian Rockies, but they have a white stripe down each side. I got bit twice and the bites hurt, but they didn’t leave a mark. They were most annoying buzzing around my head. I managed to kill quite a few by hitting them with the brim of my Tilley hat, knocking them to the ground and stunning them long enough to step on them. Though they were tough little bastards – more than once they bounced off the ground and kept flying.
I did wonder a few times if I was going to make it to the top or whether was even worth the effort. But as I got higher, the view became more enticing, and I couldn’t stop.
|
About halfway there. My first glimpse of my destination in the distance.
|
|
I took a lot of two-minute breaks to keep my heart from exploding and forced myself to drink water and eat the snacks I had so I could keep my encroaching headache at bay. I also took some aspirin – you’re supposed to dissolve it under your tongue while keeping your heart elevated, right? I’m kidding. About the heart attack – not about the aspirin, I absolutely took some aspirin. Does wonders at higher altitudes.
It took me exactly 4 hours to reach Refugio Frey. I was exhausted, hot and thirsty, but the hostel had food and cold beverages for sale, including ice cold beer. The lake water was pristine and cool, and the view amazing. But I only spent an hour at the lake before beginning my descent.
While I was up there, I had a chance to check out the hostel. From what I understand, these huts are common along trekking trails, so I wanted to know what I could expect if I did any trekking. They had a separate building with a few flush toilets and sinks. In the main building, the sleeping room wasn’t much more than a small room with foam mats crammed together on the floor and on shelves that ran along both walls. People sleep side by side, shoulder to shoulder. They also had a water supply which I imagine is completely untreated, but at that altitude water is pretty safe to drink. I’m not dead, at any rate.
As much as I didn’t want to spend the night up there (sharing a tiny room with a lot of strangers), I am jealous of the amazing view they would have had after the moon set. The sky was clear and at that altitude, surrounded by mountains on all sides, they probably had a great view of the stars.
The trip down the mountain was easier on my heart, but harder on my joints. Trekking poles would have been nice. And I don’t think I’ve ever been so happy to see a parking lot in my entire life. I had 20 minutes to spare before the bus left to take me back to town; enough time for beer, orange juice and a couple of amazing empanadas that would probably not have tasted as good on any other day.
It took me exactly 4 hours to reach Refugio Frey. I was exhausted, hot and thirsty, but the hostel had food and cold beverages for sale, including ice cold beer. The lake water was pristine and cool, and the view amazing. But I only spent an hour at the lake before beginning my descent.
While I was up there, I had a chance to check out the hostel. From what I understand, these huts are common along trekking trails, so I wanted to know what I could expect if I did any trekking. They had a separate building with a few flush toilets and sinks. In the main building, the sleeping room wasn’t much more than a small room with foam mats crammed together on the floor and on shelves that ran along both walls. People sleep side by side, shoulder to shoulder. They also had a water supply which I imagine is completely untreated, but at that altitude water is pretty safe to drink. I’m not dead, at any rate.
As much as I didn’t want to spend the night up there (sharing a tiny room with a lot of strangers), I am jealous of the amazing view they would have had after the moon set. The sky was clear and at that altitude, surrounded by mountains on all sides, they probably had a great view of the stars.
The trip down the mountain was easier on my heart, but harder on my joints. Trekking poles would have been nice. And I don’t think I’ve ever been so happy to see a parking lot in my entire life. I had 20 minutes to spare before the bus left to take me back to town; enough time for beer, orange juice and a couple of amazing empanadas that would probably not have tasted as good on any other day.
|
There are climbers at the top! (Right click to open image in new tab, and then zoom in)
|
The next day I decided to take a day off from anything strenuous, but I feel remarkably good, all things considered. [And of course the internet went out at the hostel, so I'm uploading this a couple of days later with painfully slow internet at a coffee shop.]
I did some shopping… I have all the things now. I’m going to do some trekking! I think I’ll start with some easy camping, as a trial run for all my new gear. I'm going to put my laptop in storage for a few days. I'll have some internet access here and there on my phone, but it could be a week until I post again.
The mountains are calling…
I did some shopping… I have all the things now. I’m going to do some trekking! I think I’ll start with some easy camping, as a trial run for all my new gear. I'm going to put my laptop in storage for a few days. I'll have some internet access here and there on my phone, but it could be a week until I post again.
The mountains are calling…