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  • Golden, BC
    • River Rafting
    • Via Ferrata
    • Wapta and Thompson Falls
    • Northern Lights Wildlife Wolf Center
    • Mount Hunter
    • Iceline
    • Perley Rock
  • Argentina
    • Northern Argentina >
      • Buenos Aires >
        • Flying To Buenos Aires
        • Walking in Buenos Aires
        • Dollar Bills Y'all
        • Worst Hostel Ever
        • Omicron
      • La Plata >
        • The Town Of La Plata
        • The Cemetery
      • Mar Azul >
        • Mar Azul
        • More Mar Azul
      • Cordoba
      • Aconcagua
      • San Juan
      • Salta
      • More Salta
      • Tilcara
      • Humahuaca
    • Northern Patagonia >
      • Bariloche
      • Hiking Bariloche
      • Mount Tronador
      • Leaving Bariloche
      • Trekking El Bolson
    • Southern Patagonia >
      • Bus to El Calafate
      • El Calafate
      • Big Ice - Perito Moreno Glacier
      • Ushuaia
      • Martillo Island
  • Bolivia
    • Cordillera de Sama
    • Sucre
    • Tiwanaku
    • Death Road
    • Palca Canyon
    • La Paz
    • Copacabana - Lake Titicaca
  • Peru
    • Puno
    • Colca Canyon
    • Inca Trail to Machu Picchu
    • Cusco
    • Nazca
    • Paracas
    • Lima
  • Colombia
    • La Chorrera Falls
    • Bogota
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Flying 11,000 km during a pandemic

​So let me tell you about my trip down to Argentina. For the most part, it’s exactly as you’d expect a day of long flights with short connections to be – frustrating, confusing, and exhausting. But then there’s a pandemic going on, which added a whole new level of pain.

This was a last minute trip. I booked the flight Saturday morning and departed 24 hours later. I knew that Argentina was open to tourism November 1 which was the day I was scheduled to arrive - the trip would take over 24 hours. And Canadians can enter for up to 90 days without getting a visa.

But, in 2021 there’s Covid. Both Argentina and Chile have very strict requirements for tourists due to Covid.

People visiting Argentina need to be double vaccinated, which I am. I’m actually triple vaccinated because I had an AZ/Pfizer mixed dose and was eligible for a second Pfizer to meet travel requirements. I got a flu shot too, so I feel pretty invincible right now.

When I booked the flight I was careful to follow the instructions linked to my ticket. And there were a lot of them. The first step was to get a PCR test. I managed to book one for 3PM on Saturday at a Shoppers Drug Mart, about 18 hours before departure. And that was cutting it close because they told me results could come up to 24-48 hours after the test. Knowing what I know now, that’s really not going to work for a lot of people that are traveling. I think I probably could have and should have found a quicker test for a higher price.

I also needed travel insurance that covered Covid specifically. That wasn’t hard to find and purchase on the internet.

And then I had to complete a big online form for Argentina. And… that form did NOT work in English. I speak, read and write a bit of Spanish, but my knowledge doesn’t include many of the words and phrases on that paperwork. I managed to load up the form in English on another monitor for reference, but some of the form didn't make sense in either language. I ended up skipping a lot of fields which fortunately didn’t seem to matter in the end. 

And the last step in the form was to upload a copy of my negative PCR test. Which I didn’t have yet. I felt so relieved at 1:30 AM when my phone alerted me that my results were negative. It was a pleasant surprise that my nearly completed form that I left open on my computer screen was still live. I'd expected it to time out and refresh to blank.

Off to the airport at 7 AM with printouts and lots of pdf’s on my phone. I had to wait in a long line to check-in, AFTER wasting too much time attempting to check in at a self-serve kiosk, which didn't work. I got checked-in okay – and if I hadn’t had that negative PCR test, that wouldn’t have been the case. Next, security. Another very long line. And then – customs. That line was the slowest of all, though I'm not sure why. I kept looking at the clock and looking at my boarding pass. I’d been standing in lines for over 2 hours already, and my flight was about to board, but they never called for any passengers to come forward. Comparing departure times with other people in line, it was clear that my flight was first. People insisted that I move to the front of the line. They even unhooked the ropes from the poles to help me through. It was very kind.

Customs was okay and I hurried to my gate. I made it with 2 minutes to spare - not enough time to buy the bottle of water I desperately wanted. It felt good just to sit down and get my laptop bag off my shoulder.

With the middle seat empty, the first flight to Los Angeles wasn’t bad – other than the 45 minute wait for deicing. In LAX, I knew I had to check in again and get a boarding pass for the next flight to Santiago, Chile, so I headed to the gate and ran into my first problem due to Covid. The system wouldn’t issue me a boarding pass. The date was October 31 and both Argentina and Chile (my next layover) weren’t open for tourism till November 1 (my scheduled arrival date). The system was set to change over at midnight, not before. Because flights to Chile were restricted too, I wasn’t the only person with that problem. But the Snow White and the Skeleton (dressed for Halloween) were really good with the passengers. Snow White kept reassuring me that she hadn’t forgotten about me. But I didn’t panic too much. I figured the worst that could happen is that I’d spend Halloween night in Los Angeles and catch a flight the next day. Maybe it could even have been fun…?

The one thing waiting at the desk allowed me to do was eavesdrop on what was happening with other people. One woman was denied boarding because her PCR test was set to expire 20 minutes before departure. They said that the 72 hour window from the time you’re swabbed to your scheduled departure time was set in stone. So she had to go outside, get another PCR test and then fly on a later flight though Lima to Santiago. And there were lots of people that had expired PCR tests. Or no test at all. And there were a few people that hadn’t read their ticket conditions carefully. Without insurance and right paperwork, several people were turned away.

Near the end of the boarding process, Snow White called me over with good news, providing I had all the requisite paperwork, and I did. I had some trouble trying to prove that my insurance policy covered the minimum of $30,000 in Covid coverage, but I had the full policy in PDF form.

The second flight was really awful, as all 10+ hour overnight flights in coach are. Thankfully the middle seat was empty and the man in the aisle seat, Danny, was nice to chat with. And really, the leg room was ample. There is a chance I was in economy plus…? Or maybe Latam Airlines just has more leg room. I was able to kneel on the floor in front of my seat to achieve different stretching positions which helped a lot. But there is nothing that can remedy the pain of a long flight.

Do airplane seats actually fit anyone? I always have to jam a pillow in the big void between my lower back and the seat. My head didn’t quite reach the headrest either. I guess I'm just too short.
Picture
I found the tape on the wing of this jet rather interesting. The bubbles formed as we gained altitude.
Up until this point, wearing a mask hadn’t been too bad. I’d been wearing it since I arrived at the Calgary airport and much of the time I forgot about it completely. But a few hours into my second flight, the backs of my ears started to burn. 
​
Somehow, I got through the flight and the food wasn’t terrible. Near the end of the flight I spent some time in the bathroom trying to freshen up as much as one can. And it’s a good thing I did, because I had ZERO time to do anything in the Santiago airport.
Picture
Sunrise over the Andes as we approach Santiago
When we got off the plane in Santiago, we were dumped in a huge crowd that was in front of the gate. It was kind of like a line, but there were so many people that it was more of a horde. I could see hundreds of people waiting in front of me. Staff came through to check our Chile paperwork was complete or something (I don’t even know) but I had none of that because I was in transit to Argentina. The staff told me to step aside and wait. So, I did. I waited for 10 minutes, though I wandered a bit trying to see if there was a way to get to my next gate, but everything was blocked off. The line didn’t move. The staff said nothing. And my flight was leaving in less than an hour. Waiting didn't seem like a smart thing to do.

So… I cut the line. I walked through people until I found a different airport employee. I showed him my boarding pass and thankfully he took me through the crowd, down some hallways past… I’m guessing 1000 more people waiting in that same line that wasn’t moving. When we got to the place where the line actually STARTED (oh yes, it kept going), there was a roped off empty lane along side it. He told me in Spanish to proceed down the lane and turn right at the end. And off I went.

As I walked, I passed more and more people waiting in line. Eventually I reached the place the line ended – the Covid documentation check point and PCR testing. There were 100 little numbered tables with a person at each one. They were examining Covid paperwork to allow entry into Chile, and they were doing it manually. There were no computers. I am sure that many people waited hours to get through that line. After PCR testing, those people would need to take a taxi or private car to their destination and isolate until the PCR test came back negative. Based on what I was seeing, I tried to mentally prepare for the same in Argentina.

I finally got to a security check point where there was another long line. My flight was already boarding. So… I cut that line too. I felt bad, but it was clear that the only way I’d make the flight is if I took some initiative. I think people probably understood. I tried to be as polite as one can be, saying “con permiso” with an apologetic tone.

And I had to walk quite a bit further still to get to the gate. I didn’t even stop for the bathroom. The entire trek through the airport was over a kilometer (according to my phone).

I had to present my PCR test and show my paperwork at the gate and was one of the last people to board. And I was happy to see I’d been upgraded to “plus” seating. Lots of leg room and 3 seats to myself. The rest of the plane was quite full.

The Andes in Chile are beautiful. I know because the seat belt sign didn’t shut off until we passed the mountains, at which point I laid down across the three seats and fell asleep almost instantly. I woke up when I heard a ding for seatbelts and felt the plane start its descent. I was tired and not that happy about sitting up, but the landing came very quickly after we began descent. It felt like we just dropped out of the clouds onto the runway.
Picture
The Andes heading east from Santiago, Chile
Since I was in the 4th row, I was one of the first people off the plane in Buenos Aires. I was second in line at customs. And customs was a breeze. I gave them my passport, my “paperwork” must have been valid and in their computer because they took my photo, stamped my passport and sent me on my way. My checked backpack was coming down the belt as I approached. I got a green light that allowed me to skip the declarations check. My vaccination info from Alberta was good enough to be allowed to exit the airport. I was on the street in less than 10 minutes.
​
And so here I am in Buenos Aires! So far so good, but that’s for another post.

Next Post - Walking in Buenos Aires >