Colca Canyon
While searching the web for things to do in Peru, I found Colca Canyon – one of the deepest canyons in the world. I read that there were many trekking routes around and through the canyon and that was all I needed to know. I made it my next destination.
Getting to the Canyon isn’t very straightforward. Obviously, there are tours that include transportation, but I didn’t want to go on a tour, let alone pay more for the inconvenience. I knew there were busses that left Arequipa at 4 AM, giving trekkers time to hike after arriving in Cabanaconde, but I wanted a good night’s sleep before trekking. I especially didn’t want to have to hike 6 hours immediately after a 4 or 5-hour bus ride. I took a 10 AM minibus to Chivay, then a collectivo (minibus that stops everywhere and anywhere) to Cabanaconde. It was a bit of a slow trip and involved a fair bit of waiting around (I think I just finished my 20th book since leaving Calgary), but it was comfortable enough and only cost a few dollars.
Getting to the Canyon isn’t very straightforward. Obviously, there are tours that include transportation, but I didn’t want to go on a tour, let alone pay more for the inconvenience. I knew there were busses that left Arequipa at 4 AM, giving trekkers time to hike after arriving in Cabanaconde, but I wanted a good night’s sleep before trekking. I especially didn’t want to have to hike 6 hours immediately after a 4 or 5-hour bus ride. I took a 10 AM minibus to Chivay, then a collectivo (minibus that stops everywhere and anywhere) to Cabanaconde. It was a bit of a slow trip and involved a fair bit of waiting around (I think I just finished my 20th book since leaving Calgary), but it was comfortable enough and only cost a few dollars.
I spent the night in Cabanaconde, just a 10-minute walk to my first trailhead. I slept well, had a full breakfast, and started my trek at 7 AM. I left most of my luggage at the hotel, including my laptop, which always makes me nervous, but the depth of this canyon required that I travel light. I was staying at hotels in the canyon (not camping). I only needed my little backpack to carry water, a snack, my e-reader, bathing suit, a little bar of soap, my toothbrush, sunscreen, a couple of pairs of clean underwear, my fleece jacket and rain jacket. I also had a very limited first aid kit. I didn’t even take my pocketknife with me – it’s kind of heavy. I also had my hat, sunglasses and trekking poles.
The first part of the trek took me a few kilometers along the top of the canyon to the west. I was able to get a good look at the canyon and could see bits of trails in the distance. It was a little intimidating. The canyon is very deep.
Then I started to descend. The trail wasn’t too steep (it had a lot of switchbacks), but there were roundish rocks on the trail that rolled under my feet, especially while descending. I lost my footing several times, nearly falling. I had to keep my eyes on the path and walk carefully. When I hit a gravel road, I got a bit complacent with that - I started looking around, soaking in the view, and I did slip and fall on my butt. So my descent was quite slow, and the sun got a little hot, but the view was spectacular from start to finish.
Then I started to descend. The trail wasn’t too steep (it had a lot of switchbacks), but there were roundish rocks on the trail that rolled under my feet, especially while descending. I lost my footing several times, nearly falling. I had to keep my eyes on the path and walk carefully. When I hit a gravel road, I got a bit complacent with that - I started looking around, soaking in the view, and I did slip and fall on my butt. So my descent was quite slow, and the sun got a little hot, but the view was spectacular from start to finish.
At the bottom of the canyon, I was shocked by how large the river was. It looked like a tiny creek from above. Looking back up toward the top of the canyon was humbling. I was dreading the trek back up.
It took another half hour or so to get to my first hotel. I was prepared for very basic accommodations without power, but I had lights and electrical outlets in my room. The bathroom was a separate, concrete structure, but it had a flush toilet and a hot water shower. I got clean, changed into my bathing suit, and soaked in the hot tub for a couple of hours (the water wasn’t that hot). They had filled the pool just before I arrived.
It took another half hour or so to get to my first hotel. I was prepared for very basic accommodations without power, but I had lights and electrical outlets in my room. The bathroom was a separate, concrete structure, but it had a flush toilet and a hot water shower. I got clean, changed into my bathing suit, and soaked in the hot tub for a couple of hours (the water wasn’t that hot). They had filled the pool just before I arrived.
Later that afternoon, one other guest arrived. We were the only two guests that night. The other guest was a young lady from Russia named Katrina. Apparently, she was having trouble getting back to Russia, so she extended her trip. She didn’t speak English or Spanish very well, and I don’t understand Russian, so I never figured out what the problem was, though I think I can guess. She had hiked the same trail I did that day, but she was giving up. She arranged for transportation to take her back to Chivay at 4 AM, so she didn’t need to hike any further. She said, “It’s not for me.” We talked a little bit over dinner, a bit of English, a bit of Spanish and a fair bit of body language.
I had my first cup of Coca tea that night. Coca leaves are common (and legal) throughout the Andes regions in Argentina and Bolivia, but I’d just never had any. Coca leaves contain only a tiny amount of cocaine, though I hear it can cause you to test positive on a drug test if you drink enough. Coca tea might give you a bit of a buzz, but not unlike caffeine. Now that I’m in Peru, coca tea seems much more common, and tourists are encouraged to drink it to help with altitude sickness.
I’ve also never tried cocaine (not that I’ve been offered any). In the past, I have had negative reactions to benzocaine, lidocaine (and whatever the dentist injects you with). I don’t get a rash but more of a burn, so I don’t know that it’s an allergy, as such. I’ve always wondered if these negative reactions extended to cocaine, since it’s in the same family. Well, I had just one cup of coca tea, and then I went to bed and fell asleep almost immediately (I didn’t notice a buzz). A few hours later, I woke up with a sore throat and it was kind of hard to swallow. I took a fast-acting ibuprofen which seemed to kill the pain and I went back to sleep. I was worried it was an infection, but I also wondered about the tea. A few hours after that, when I woke up and went to the bathroom, I looked in the mirror and was shocked to see how puffy my face was, especially around my eyes. I was fine a few hours later. I dunno, but I think I’ll steer clear of the coca tea from now on.
The second day of trekking was harder than I was expecting it to be. There is no trail along the bottom of the canyon; I had to climb 700 meters to head upstream toward my next destination. But it wasn’t so bad. The air seemed thick with oxygen – I was below 3000 meters the whole time.
I had my first cup of Coca tea that night. Coca leaves are common (and legal) throughout the Andes regions in Argentina and Bolivia, but I’d just never had any. Coca leaves contain only a tiny amount of cocaine, though I hear it can cause you to test positive on a drug test if you drink enough. Coca tea might give you a bit of a buzz, but not unlike caffeine. Now that I’m in Peru, coca tea seems much more common, and tourists are encouraged to drink it to help with altitude sickness.
I’ve also never tried cocaine (not that I’ve been offered any). In the past, I have had negative reactions to benzocaine, lidocaine (and whatever the dentist injects you with). I don’t get a rash but more of a burn, so I don’t know that it’s an allergy, as such. I’ve always wondered if these negative reactions extended to cocaine, since it’s in the same family. Well, I had just one cup of coca tea, and then I went to bed and fell asleep almost immediately (I didn’t notice a buzz). A few hours later, I woke up with a sore throat and it was kind of hard to swallow. I took a fast-acting ibuprofen which seemed to kill the pain and I went back to sleep. I was worried it was an infection, but I also wondered about the tea. A few hours after that, when I woke up and went to the bathroom, I looked in the mirror and was shocked to see how puffy my face was, especially around my eyes. I was fine a few hours later. I dunno, but I think I’ll steer clear of the coca tea from now on.
The second day of trekking was harder than I was expecting it to be. There is no trail along the bottom of the canyon; I had to climb 700 meters to head upstream toward my next destination. But it wasn’t so bad. The air seemed thick with oxygen – I was below 3000 meters the whole time.
Following my GPS map got me stuck on a steep hill once – I decided to backtrack and take the road instead. Most of the trek on my second day ended up being on gravel roads. At one point I had to stop and wait ten minutes for road crews higher on the mountain to pause what they were doing because their work had the potential to cause rockslides. That roadwork was the reason my GPS path was taped off with “NO PASAR” tape. But I didn’t want to walk 4 extra kilometers on the road, so I did take a shortcut that wasn’t on any map. It looked like a well-traveled path, at least at first. I got lucky with that one, though it did require pushing through some thick bushes in a few places. I probably should have taken the first path that was taped off.
Back at the bottom of the canyon, I found myself in a little, tropical oasis. I stayed at a little resort that was nice, though there were a few too many rowdy guests for my liking. There was no hot tub, but the pool was nice, and the water wasn’t too cold. I had a private bathroom and took a long, hot shower.
I had breakfast at 5:30 in the morning. They recommended leaving early, before the sun hit the hillside, and I agreed with that strategy wholeheartedly. At breakfast I learned that several of the guests were going to ride mules up the trail. They asked if I wanted to ride a mule too, but I declined. They stared at me, kind of skeptical, but I smiled and said “It’s the ONLY thing I have to do today. I’ll be fine.”
I was on the trail by 6 AM. I had a good head start, but wow, those mules climb fast. And they know the trail. I stopped at a fork to let them pass, and they knew which fork to take. A few of the guests seemed to be enjoying the mule ride. A couple of the others looked somewhat miserable.
I was glad that the trail remained in the shadow of the hill for most of my climb. I took my time and kept the exertion to moderate levels. I stopped frequently to enjoy the view and take photos. It was an amazing trail, and the terrain was spectacular. Much more interesting that I’d expected. There were lots of flowers and pretty birds. Rocks towered above me in places. There was fresh snow on the mountain peaks beyond the valley. And when the sun hit the valley below, the view was breathtaking.
Back at the bottom of the canyon, I found myself in a little, tropical oasis. I stayed at a little resort that was nice, though there were a few too many rowdy guests for my liking. There was no hot tub, but the pool was nice, and the water wasn’t too cold. I had a private bathroom and took a long, hot shower.
I had breakfast at 5:30 in the morning. They recommended leaving early, before the sun hit the hillside, and I agreed with that strategy wholeheartedly. At breakfast I learned that several of the guests were going to ride mules up the trail. They asked if I wanted to ride a mule too, but I declined. They stared at me, kind of skeptical, but I smiled and said “It’s the ONLY thing I have to do today. I’ll be fine.”
I was on the trail by 6 AM. I had a good head start, but wow, those mules climb fast. And they know the trail. I stopped at a fork to let them pass, and they knew which fork to take. A few of the guests seemed to be enjoying the mule ride. A couple of the others looked somewhat miserable.
I was glad that the trail remained in the shadow of the hill for most of my climb. I took my time and kept the exertion to moderate levels. I stopped frequently to enjoy the view and take photos. It was an amazing trail, and the terrain was spectacular. Much more interesting that I’d expected. There were lots of flowers and pretty birds. Rocks towered above me in places. There was fresh snow on the mountain peaks beyond the valley. And when the sun hit the valley below, the view was breathtaking.
A few people passed me on the trail, some breathing very hard. Most of them looked pretty grumpy. I was easily the happiest person climbing out of the canyon.
It took 4 hours and 15 minutes to reach the top. Over a kilometer in vertical gain over 4.1 kilometers of trail. It really wasn’t that bad! I could have climbed faster, but …why?
It took 4 hours and 15 minutes to reach the top. Over a kilometer in vertical gain over 4.1 kilometers of trail. It really wasn’t that bad! I could have climbed faster, but …why?